Batteries for Motorola Mobile Phone and Smartphone

The most popular Motorola models are listed here.
Please use the search box below the table if your phone or battery is not listed.

Original battery Popular models Replacement battery -
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BR-50 Motorola Razr V3, V3i & V3c Buy online now!
BZ-60 Motorola Razr V3xx & V6 Buy online now!
BC-50, BC-60 Motorola Razr V3x, KRZR K1, L6 & L7 Buy online now!
BK-70 Motorola Sidekick Buy online now!
BX-40, BX50 Motorola V8 and V9 (Razr2 V9) Buy online now!
SNN5843 Motorola Quench XT
BT-50, BT-70, BQ-50 Motorola V360 Buy online now!
SNN5683, SNN5704 Motorola V60 Buy online now!
SNN5645 Motorola E360 Buy online now!
SNN5749A Motorola C115 Buy online now!

Please use the search box if you cannot find your phone:

The Motorola model number is listed underneath the battery. Just remove the battery cover and look for "V9" or similar as per the table above.

Ignore any of the following: IMEI numbers, any code numbers or barcodes, CE numbers, "N" numbers with a tick box and triangle, FCC numbers and MSN codes. The battery cover is normally on the back of the phone and you will need to press down firmly and slide the cover off at the same time. If you need further help then please email us for advice.

We often have customers who are not sure if their battery is failing or if its the phone or charger. Mobile phone batteries can fail suddenly occasionally but normally they just gradually need more and more charging, and last less time between each charge. See our information under "Quick Help" above if you are not sure its the battery that is at fault.

Mobile Phone chargers are available for most Motorola models. Using a car charger (which plugs into the 12volt cigarette lighter socket in your car) is a good way to keep your battery topped up and extend its working life. Battery chargers for your mobile which use the 240volt home sockets are also available.

Lithium IOn (Li-Ion) Mobile battery life is typically now around 2 years for Li-Ion batteries if they are charged up regularly. Heavy use may shorten this time (to less than 1 year!), while light use (phone used for occasional calls) could extend it to over 4 years. Older phones were less heavy on power and hence the batteries often lasted for several years.

Note that we offer a 14 day money back guarantee to allow our customers to try this, all you will have to pay for is the postage if the new battery does not solve the problem. Please retain the packaging in case you want to send back the battery.

Remember to give the new battery a full charge before use (ideally with the device switched off) as the battery will not be fully charged initially. Then use the phone normally and top-up the charge whenever its convenient. It is better to do this than to fully discharge the battery every time, however you should aim to do a good discharge at least once a month (i.e. run the battery down to the last bar or until the symbol flashes amber or red).

Unlike the older Ni-Cad batteries, modern Lithium-Ion cells do not have a "memory" effect and don't need to be fully discharged all the time, but neither should they be left on the charger all of the time and never discharged. Its a balance, find a routine that works for you. The battery has a protection mechanism built-in to avoid over-charging, but note that if the battery is fully discharged and then left flat without recharging for a long time it can become hard or impossible to recharge, and permanent damage is likely. So, keep it charged up and you will get the best results.

Most mobile phone and camera batteries are now made using Lithium-Ion technology, or Li-Ion for short. Lithium-Ion provides the best capacity in the smallest and lightest format. Most batteries will have markings on them such as "Li-Ion, 3.6V, 700mAh" (all explained in our help section), along with some manufacturers identification (e.g. Motorola BL-4B). Li-Ion battery voltages are nominally 3.6v or 3.7v (this is the mid point between being flat and fully charged at 4.0v to 4.1v). You can use a simple multimeter to measure the voltage, usually between the two outermost terminals. The other terminal(s) are often for communications or temperature sensing.

Chargers charge the battery to around 4.1V when fully charged. Low voltage is not a good sign, as the protection circuitry may have gone open-circuit and the battery will not accept charge from its standard charger. Note however that even end of life batteries may show a reading well above 3V so its not a very reliable test due to surface charge effects. Batteries tend to display higher internal resistance as they get older, and it is this rather than the open circuit terminal voltage which prevents them from working normally in the phone when called upon to service peak current demands.

The "mAh" marking is the nominal capacity of the battery when new in milli-amp hours. Higher capacity is generally better, as long as the manufacturer does not compromise on the grade of cell used and the protection mechanisms for overcharging and short-circuits. We test all of these aspects before offering the higher capacity batteries for sale, and note that you can replace your battery with one showing a higher or lower mAh rating without any problems. Almost all batteries that we test show less capacity than the stickers would suggest, so we tend to work on real "as tested" capacity and choose manufacturers with good consistent real capacities.

You may wish to switch off the bluetooth feature to save power on the phone. Also you can can shorten the time the display light stays on after use. Both options are available through the phone set-up menus. Newer phones with lots of features often use much more power than older models and need charging every 2 days or so (for example) instead of lasting a week on standby. It depends on the model of the phone and usage patterns to some degree, and also location relative to base station and whether the phone is being used as a modem for a laptop (for example).

If you are having problems with your phone or similar device then there are 3 likely causes.

1. Faulty battery (or end of life battery).

In our experience, having sold and fitted many thousands of phone batteries, if your phone is generally working OK but you now need to keep recharging the battery at much shorter intervals than you used to, then the Battery is very likely to be the problem.

The quickest and cheapest way to be certain is to try a new battery. We offer a 14 day money back guarantee to allow our customers to try this, all you will have to pay for is the postage if the new battery does not solve the problem. Please retain the packaging in case you want to send back the battery.

A battery can fail suddenly and completely, but most often as it gets older it will not hold as much charge as it did when new, or it will only hold charge for a shorter time period, needing recharging each day perhaps when you used to get a few days between charges.

A battery that has reached its end of life can also sometimes cause the phone to behave strangely, perhaps switching off when you don't want it to, or affecting the display screen. If the phone only works when plugged into the charger then this can be another indication that the battery is end of life - but even then a dead battery can cause problems.

2. Faulty Charger.

First run through the obvious checks. For example if there is a light on the charger does it come on when it should? Does the battery symbol on the device flash as it should when the charger is plugged in? If not then this can be an indication that the charger might be the problem. However the connection on the phone or the phone's internal charging circuitry could also be causing the problem, so its best to try out another charger to localise the fault (for example use an in-car charger or a friends charger if possible). If you don't have an in-car charger to use we can provide most types for $9.95 plus postage, just email or call the store.

3. Faulty Phone / Camera.

If you have ruled out the battery and the charger using the tips above, then the most likely cause of the problem is the device itself. The connector where the charger plugs in is a common source of failure and can work loose, or the internal charging circuitry may have failed.